Wednesday, 23 July 2014

22 July 2014 (sunny and hot!) 80 km

“We muuust go”
“Go where”I replied
“To Gothenberg………I want to ride my bicycle……I want to ride my bike”
“Don’t try and get round me by singing Queen songs” I said.  You’re coming with me.”
We hit the road….. she was a hot one……..about 35 degrees I reckoned
I had her sitting on the front of the handlebars. As we cycled, she’d posted on Facebook where she was going and crowds came out onto the road in hordes. Not to see this hot Swedish beauty, but to listen to the Abba songs, she was singing on the way.
“Do you like Abba” I said
“I do……I do I do I do I do I do………
On we rode…. And for a while there …. She was my Chiquitita and I was her Fernando…!
The crowds were now in every town cheering us on and encouraging us by singing all their old favourites…….Waterloo…..Mama Mia……..Dancing Queen…….Knowing me….Knowing You…..
On and on we went and as we closed in on our destination, she was my Agnetha and I was her Bjorn!

 I heard thundering hooves which roused me briefly from my sleep and I wondered if there really was a herd of wild horses nearby or was it the sound of a car scrunching the gravel in the carpark…..but it really did sound like thundering hooves……
We awoke at 5.30am and decided to get up pronto as we didn’t feel too comfortable sleeping in such a public place and packed the tent up immediately.  Wandered over to a park bench to have breakfast and noticed the No Camping sign…..whoops! 
Also noticed the herd of wild horses across the river – so it wasn’t just my imagination.  Finished breakfast and were on the road by 7am and it was a beautiful morning with a beautiful landscape on a fantastic traffic free cycle lane.
Houses appear to be built into the rock
  Over the last day, outcrops of rock have appeared in the landscape and give quite a dramatic appearance.  Took plenty of photos on our ride into Gothenberg and hope they will do the coastline justice.

After aout 5km, the cycle lane went to a tree lined path, well sign-posted, all the way to Gothenberg.  It was a cruisy and flat ride in and we got to see Gothenberg nice and early with few people about.  Town doesn’t seem to wake up until about 10am. 
Gothenberg
Once again, cycling is the way to go when you have quite  large area to cover.  There are plenty of beggars in Gothenberg and we both find them very annoying, sitting on their backsides all day holding their hands out.    One made the mistake of approaching us and asking us for money and was told a very definite NO by both of us.  Found the Central Station at 10am where the Tourist Info and Starbucks were both situated and plugged in at Starbucks and used their
wifi to upload the blog.  Also treated ourselves to a proper caramel macchiato and a muffin each.  Then I went to use the toilet.  Sorry, we don’t actually have one – you have to use the Central Station one apparently.  So I  followed all the signs about 300m to the toilet only to find it cost 10kroner or $2! 
Didn’t have any money on me so had to turn around and go back to Pete at Starbucks.  Saw a sign for Tourist Info which was 300 m in the other direction and walked there to use theirs and get a map only to find they didn’t have a toilet!  So went to use the mall toilet (5 kroner) then saw good old MacDonalds and their toilets were locked and cost 5 kroner to use!  So had to walk all the way back to Starbucks no better off than when I’d left about fifteen minutes beforehand!

Left Starbucks at midday and so began the debacle of trying to leave town.  There are cycle tracks all over the place with names you’ve never heard of on them so you’ve no idea which one to take.  It was stinking hot again and very frustrating trying to find our way out.  We asked several people along the way and were on the right track at one stage but a half km long stretch of roadworks soon put an end to that.  So we found a supermarket and a shady spot to have lunch before trying once again.  Went to the nearest signpost which read the names of four towns pointing in a northerly direction.  A signpost across the road named the same four towns and was pointing in an easterly direction.  Asked a local lady which sign was right and she told us they both were.  What? Decided to guess our way by figuring the sun’s position and asking someone in which direction the Gota canal lay.  Gotta say, local knowledge could do with a bit of work.  Some people are woefully ignorant of their surroundings.
At last we found a landmark that was on one of our maps, the Kviberg Kyrkgarten which turned out was the Gothenberg cemetery.  It even had a map of how to get out of there – although obviously a lot of people had died trying.  Were we up to the task?  Apparently the way we wanted was directly west across the cemetery which involved going up a massive great hill in the blazing sunshine.  We were already boiling so when we spied an old fashioned pump which they have dotted around the place so relatives can water plants and generally tend to gravesites, we filled our water bottles and doused our heads under it before the slog up the hill.  Here the paved driveway wound it’s way round several hundred graves before changing to a gravel track.  It then kept going in the forest until I think it was just a service road for all the power pylons on top of this hill.  Worse still it was taking us away from where we wanted to go.  So we had to retrace our steps and whizz down the hill and  take a right near the bottom, past dozens of sun worshippers, stripped down to their bikinis in a cemetery!  We figured it out though – these sunworshippers were the paler kind who were obviously more at home with the surrounding corpses until they’d built up their required tan level to be allowed on a Swedish beach.
Finally found the Sverigeleden cycle track and headed uphill out of Gothenberg.  We had a decision to make here – do we go straight up the canal to Trollhatten or turn right to Sjovik.  We turned right figuring it would cut our distance and the track looked shady and inviting.  What a great decision.  We worked out halfway along that it must be an old railway line as we were climbing gradually most of the way but the gradient was so easy it was barely noticeable.  The other bonus was half the ride was in the shade which we were extremely grateful for.  There was also hardly anyone else on it so we were able to cycle side by side and talk.
Gradually we came to a lake and a snake writhed across the cycle track in front of us, Pete having to put his brakes on to avoid running it over.  It would have been four foot long and was heading from the lake to the grass.  We were so hot though that we decided to swim in the lake anyway and found a shedded snakeskin when we came out.
Lakeside home
Then about fifteen minutes after that we encountered more wildlife in the shape of a mother and baby deer in the woods off to the side of the path.  Passed through an awesome rocky tunnel and finally to the little town of Sjovik.  Went into the local minimarket where an Iranian looking guy served us.  I asked where he was from and he said Iran and we got talking.  He had been a refugee 27 years ago when they killed the Shah of Iran and had been helped to escape and make a new life in Sweden – but he says he still feels like a refugee.  He looked sad I have to say and it just reinforced the knowledge that everyone has a story to tell. 
Bought our dinner supplies and headed out of town looking for our cycle path and a free camp.  Found the cycle path sign at a crossroads pointing back the way we had just come so were stood there wondering when a lovely old guy pulled up in a car to help us out.  He also told us about a camp by the lake in
town so we thought yep, we’ve done enough mileage today, let’s go and rest.  So headed back into town and found the camp no problem and were charged 150kr for the night($30).  Set up tent and met two other bikepackers there – they were the only other campers.  Everyone else there was at a music camp and were staying in the little cabins in the woods and playing violins which sounded great echoing out over the lake.  The young bikepackers were from Belgium, named Helena and Sten and were lovely.  They let us look at their maps and we loaned them our plugs as they had lost theirs and couldn’t charge their phones.  Then followed dinner and showers and then we met Helena and Sten on the balcony and sat and chatted until eleven thirty, then bed.





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